Sunburn in a Winter Wonderland

By this time, all your summer clothes have been packed up for the season, and you’ve unloaded all of your sweaters, coats, boots and other warm weather apparel. But what about your sunscreen? If you thought you didn’t need sunscreen in the winter, I’m here to tell you sunscreen should always be part of your daily regimen! While you might be semi-hibernating for the winter, the sun is not, and even small amounts of sun during a walk into a store from the parking lot can be damaging.  Here are some reasons you should still protect your skin, even during the winter.

Sunburns
Odds are you’ve seen pictures of people smiling people at the bottom of a ski run with that funny raccoon-faced look? All that redness doesn’t just come from windburn. Ice and snow works just like the water at the beach or a pool: it reflects UV rays. In the case of a snow skier, being at a higher elevation means the sunlight will be stronger, emitting more UV rays.  To avoid the red-faced raccoon look, use a sports sunscreen on your face that is at least 30 SPF.

Skin Cancer
Although other types of cancer may get more publicity, skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States. According to skincancer.org, “Each year, there are more new cases of skin cancer than the combined incidence of cancers of the breast, prostate, lung and colon.” Skin cancer is also one of the most preventable forms of cancer.  So bundle up and cover up to help keep skin cancer at bay.

Youthful skin
Nothing ages skin faster than over exposure to the sun. Consider the example of a Chicago-area man, profiled in this article, who looks 66 years old on one side of his face and 86 years old on the other. The man drove a semi-truck for nearly 30 years of his life, meaning the left side of his face was exposed to the sun for roughly eight hours a day. Take care of your skin to avoid looking 20 years older than you actually are.

Counteract Prescriptions
Many prescription medicines can leave you vulnerable to the sun, and while the sun may not seem as bright during the colder months, it can still cause skin damage. Some common medications that cause sensitivity to the sun are birth control pills, NSAIDs, antibiotics, antidepressants and diuretics. Ask your pharmacist if any of your medications could make you more sensitive to sunlight.

Extra moisture
Cold winter temperatures have a way of sucking all of the moisture not only out of the air, but also out of your skin. Why not doubly treat your skin by using a moisturizer combined with a sunscreen? This way, you’re keeping dry, cracked skin at bay, along with sunburns and wrinkles.

The Tricky Label Interpretation

When purchasing new cosmetic or skin care products, the lingo on the label can be a tricky thing to understand. Products often promise a variety of outcomes, which may include reducing puffiness or diminishing fine lines. However, it’s important to note that these results rely heavily on the ingredients.  In this blog post, I’ll offer a few tips for decoding the language on these products. But if you read nothing else in this post, remember that the ingredients listed first on a label have the highest concentration in any product.

Face wash

Regardless of age, gender or skin type, everyone should wash his or her face daily. These common ingredients may help you decide which is best for you. 

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid

This ingredient helps to gently wash away dead skin cells, reveal new skin and give your face a healthy look.

Glycolic Acid

This important ingredient reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Some research has also found that it can be beneficial for those wanting to reduce the appearance of age spots.

Salicylic Acid

This common face wash ingredient is best for acne-prone skin because it dissolves dirt and oil that builds up in the pores and causes acne. But remember to use it only once a day. Overuse will remove natural oils from the skin and worsen acne flare-ups.

Micro-beads

Usually found in anti-aging face washes, these power beads help exfoliate the skin to get rid of the dead skin cells, helping to boost collagen production and prevent fine lines and wrinkles.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

I typically recommend avoiding any face wash containing these ingredients. These detergents will strip the skin of its natural lipids — which contain fatty acids, phytosterols and vitamin E that are essential for healthy skin and avoiding signs of aging like wrinkling.

Eye Cream

Eye cream is very common among women looking for something that will support anti-aging, skin health and other minor factors. Check out these ingredients before you buy your next bottle!

Caffeine

Eye creams that promise to reduce puffiness usually have caffeine or an ingredient that decrease puffiness and dark circles by reducing inflammation. But be mindful of eye creams that contain acid. The acid causes inflammation so that the wrinkle looks less noticeable, but it will not make the skin look younger and may cause long-term damage.  

Retinol

Try using eye cream with a moisturizer. Most will have retinol as a main ingredient. Retinol has been shown in some studies to help build collagen, the skin's natural plumper.

Makeup

Buying the best makeup for your skin type can be overwhelming if you do not know what it all means.

Tinted moisturizer

Tinted moisturizers are great and often work for everyone. Tinted moisturizer hydrates, hides imperfections and evens out the complexion, but that’s about it. If you need a flawless finish, keep looking because this isn’t it.

Matte

Matte makeup is great for skin types that tend to be oily because it provides a dry, powdery finish. Often the labels won’t say “matte makeup” but rather, "pore-less" and "shine-free.” Matte makeup is not good for those with dry skin or people looking for anti-aging qualities – the powder tends to settle in and make those wrinkles more visible!

As always, if I missed anything, leave your questions in the comments and I’ll answer them there! 

Tips and Tricks for Avoiding a Face Washing Faux Pas

Washing your face is essential to ensure it stays healthy and free of major breakouts. Unfortunately, I see a lot of people washing their faces with harsh bars of soap, a common brand that is not working for their skin types, scrubbing too hard or a host of other face washing faux pas.

There are lots of articles out there extolling the value of various brands of facial soaps and washes. I’ll spare you the commercials and focus on how to choose the best washes for your skin type – and any issues you may have. If you take away one thing from this blog post, make sure it’s this: Never wash your face with a bar of soap or the same soap you use on the rest of your body. That’s just asking for trouble.

If you still have questions after reading this, feel free to ask away in the comments. I’ll be happy to answer you there.

For Oily Skin

If you have oily skin, don’t worry. It may cause a few more breakouts, but it also leads to fewer wrinkles and other signs of aging later on. Elasticity is the true fountain of youth, so don’t despair, oily skinned friend. Just manage your oily skin with the right facial soap. Consider the following:

•  Gel cleansers – Gel-based cleansers absorb excess oil without drying out the skin too much.
• Oil-free washes – If your skin is oily, don’t make it worse by using an oil-based cleanser that could clog your pores! Oil-free washes will help remove the excess oil and, like gel cleasners, will prevent your skin from drying out too much.
• “Foamy” or “soapy” cleansers – These types of soaps tend to be gentle and, like the oil-free and gel washes, will remove excess oil without drying out too much.

For Dry Skin

Dry skin is a tough type to deal with. If your goal is anti-aging, it’s important to maintain moisture. However, too much moisture or the wrong kind of moisture can result in breakouts. With that in mind, consider these points when choosing a facial soap to care for your dry skin:

• Creamy cleansers – Unlike your oily skinned friends, you should be on the lookout for a cream-based cleanser that will both moisturize your skin and remove the excess oil and dirt that clog pores. Creamy cleansers will do just that.
• Non-foaming liquid cleansers – While people with oily skin may consider foaming cleansers, those with dry skin should look for exactly the opposite. Check your drugstore for a liquid-based soap that won’t foam, but that will employ natural oils to both remove makeup and other pore-cloggers while moisturizing.
•  Soap-free – Did you just read that correctly? Yes, soap-free cleansers exist and can be a lifesaver for people with dry skin. Things like cold creams (not just for Grandma anymore!) and creamy cleansers with micro beads are a great alternative. 

For Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin comes in all types – dry, oily, old, young – you name it. Caring for it is quite a task, and it really boils down to knowing your own skin. Before you dive into this list, consider whether your skin is dry or oily, if you have any allergies or if you know of any specific ingredients that will irritate your skin. With that in mind, consider these options when seeking out an effective facial soap:

• Organic soaps – Although not everything marked “organic” is a cure-all for sensitive skin, it’s a good place to start. Most of these products are made from natural ingredients and don’t use some of the more irritating ingredients other soaps do.
•  “Calming” products – Again, it’s important to pay attention to the label in its entirety when choosing a product for your face. Still, most facial washes labeled “calming” are made for sensitive skin care.
• Glycerin – This is a key ingredient in many facial cleansers marketed to people with sensitive skin. It helps build an even skin structure, and has no side effects for most people.

For Combination Skin

People with combination skin fall right in the middle of the skin care spectrum. Their skin is neither too oily nor too dry, and there are a huge variety of products marketed to them. As with sensitive skin, it’s important to know whether you fall a little closer to the oily or dry end of that spectrum before you decide on a cleanser. That said, here’s what I recommend:

• Light foaming cleansers – Normally recommended for people with oily skin, light foaming cleansers can be very effective in maintaining healthy combination skin. If you find yourself a little on the dry side of combination, consider skipping the foam.
• Water-soluble cleansers – Unlike the creams often recommended for dry skin, combination skin calls for something a little gentler, but that won’t leave the skin feeling tight or dry.
• Gentle cleansers – Most cleansers marked as “gentle” contain little or no harsh ingredients that tend to irritate the skin. This is especially valuable to those people in the middle of the skin care spectrum!

As always, if I missed anything or if you have a question, leave it in the comments below and I'll answer it there!

Busting Acne Myths

Don’t eat chocolate. Wash your face three times a day. Don’t wear makeup. You’ll grow out of it.

We’ve all heard the countless pieces of advice offered by our grandmothers for treating and avoiding acne breakouts in our teens. Unfortunately, most of these wise words are just myths that have been repeated so often they’re disguised as truth!

In this blog post, I’ll address and debunk some of the most common myths and replace them with truths about how to manage or avoid breakouts.

Myth #1: Chocolate and other junk foods cause acne.

If you’re a chocoholic, cutting back on the sweets or greasy foods can only help your overall health. But if you’re hoping it will clear up your acne, you’ll find yourself craving a piece of candy and still dealing with those pimples.

Although this is one of the longest-running acne myths, no one is really sure where it started. Rest assured, though, that study after study has failed to find a connection between diet and acne.

Myth #2: You’ll grow out of it. Acne is a teenage thing.

Not to burst your bubble, but someone who is prone to acne will, most likely, always be prone to acne. Although acne tends to be worse in teenagers with ever-changing hormone levels, it won’t just go away completely without proper treatment.

Acne is caused by clogged pores, and is often the result of naturally oily skin. That’s why many of the acne medications out there work by drying out the skin to help reduce the breakouts. If your skin is oily, you’ll probably always deal with some form of acne.

But remember that it doesn’t have to be that way! There are lots of treatments out there – both over-the-counter and prescription medications – that can help quell those breakouts and get your acne under control.

Myth #3: “Popping” a pimple makes it go away.

Sorry, pimple popping posse. Despite what your mother may have told you, popping a pimple is not good! While it might make it a little smaller or less noticeable temporarily, popping a pimple actually causes it to be around longer. It forces the bacteria deeper into the skin, resulting in a return (with a vengeance) later or, worse, a scar when you get older.

While it may be tempting to go for the temporary relief before a big event, avoid the temptation by considering that broken skin is more difficult to cover up than any pimple. If you’re looking for a quick fix, try a benzoyl peroxide-based wash, cream or other drying agent to help take away the oil – the cause of the pimple.

Myth #4: Wash your face several times a day – good hygiene prevents acne!

Oops, wrong again. While washing your face is necessary and helpful to clear up or prevent acne, washing it too much can actually aggravate the problem. I always recommend washing twice a day with a mild, non-irritating wash. Make sure to gently rub, not scrub, your skin.

Washing your face will remove dirt, excess oil and dead skin cells. However, washing too much or using an irritating agent can dry out the skin and cause it to produce more oil to get back to its natural state. Kind of negates all that washing, don’t you think?

Myth #5: Sun exposure or getting a tan will help clear up a breakout.

Absolutely not! As I’ll say to anyone who will listen – too much sun exposure is never a good idea for healthy skin. Yes, some exposure is necessary for Vitamin D, but any change in skin color is a sign that some damage has occurred. No matter what, never visit a tanning bed, and never expose your skin to the sun without wearing sunscreen of at least 30 SPF.

Although technically not a myth – UV light does kill the p.acnes bacteria and can decrease breakouts, the risk is not worth the minor benefit. Aside from UV light, other reasons for this rumor likely resulted from the temporary skin dryness associated with sun exposure, as well as redness or darker skin that may make pimples less noticeable. These effects are not long-lasting, nor are they a cure for acne. In fact, the risk for melanoma and other skin cancers essentially counteracts any “benefit” you may see to your acne.

Did I miss any common myths you’ve encountered? Leave them in the comments, and I’ll address them!

Eat food. Get great skin. (Sort of.)

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We all love to eat. And we all have probably been told (by our grandmothers, no doubt) that eating the wrong foods can wreak havoc on our skin. I’m here to tell you that a lot of those rumors are just that – rumors. In this blog post, I’ll tell you all about the real super foods…and debunk some myths along the way.

For Anti-Aging

Vitamin C

A 2007 study released by the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that higher intakes of vitamin C and linoleic acid and lower intakes of fats and carbohydrates were associated with better skin-aging appearance. In simpler words: More vitamin C means fewer wrinkles, less dryness and a reduced risk for skin atrophy.

Sweet Potatoes

Wrinkles are, unfortunately, an unavoidable sign of aging. What you can help control is how quickly the aging process takes place. Try eating sweet potatoes — these orange spuds are filled with vitamin C that helps with the production of collagen, which helps smooth out wrinkles and prevent new ones.

Flaxseeds

If you’re not a fan of sweet potatoes, try adding flaxseeds to your diet. Flaxseeds fight wrinkles because of their payload of omega-3 fatty acids. These super seeds go great on top of your favorite yogurt and salads. You can also try blending them into your favorite smoothie!

Almonds or Avocados

If taste is your goal, add some almonds or avocados to your diet. These super foods are packed with vitamin E, which helps fight sun damage.

Tuna

Although dietitians do not always recommend canned foods, canned tuna is what I would consider an exception. That’s right, canned tuna contains skin-tightening selenium that preserves elastin, a powerful protein that helps your skin maintain its elasticity – and fight wrinkles.

For Anti-Aging and Lowering Your Risk of Skin Cancer: Vegetables. All of them.

Being told to “eat your vegetables” doesn’t seem as ridiculous as an adult — especially if you want healthy skin! Oranges, limes, kale, asparagus, spinach and grapefruits are rich sources of vitamin C – which, of course, is Super Food No. 1 for anti-aging.

Veggies can prevent skin cancer too! Spinach is particularly important for skin health because of its ability to fight various skin cancers, and carrots are filled with vitamin A, which reduces the risk of developing skin cancer cells. A bonus for carrots: They’re great blemish blasters for those with minor breakouts.

For Anti-Aging and Antioxidants: Green Tea

Green tea has become very popular in the last several years, as the media has reported on a variety of studies extolling its value. Are you drinking it yet? You should be. If all of those studies weren’t enough to convince you, here is one more: Green tea has always been known for its antioxidants and anti-cancer properties, but a recent study has found that drinking two to six cups a day will not only help prevent skin cancer, but can help reverse the effects of sun damage. Remember to drink this mighty tea when it’s hot – the antioxidants degrade as it cools.

For Dry Skin: Safflower Oil

As important as it is for our skin to actually be healthy, most of strive for it to look healthy as well. Try safflower oil. It’s packed with omega-6 fatty acids that act as a natural moisturizer, and can be beneficial for people suffering from dry, flaky or itchy skin. Some studies have 
found that this oil may even help with eczema.

Did I miss anything you want to ask about? Leave your questions in the comments and I'll answer them there. 

Covering the Signs of Aging - The Market's Best Makeup

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Anti-aging seems to be the topic on every woman’s mind nowadays. One of the big questions we receive from ADSCA patients is whether they can use makeup to aid in that quest for the fountain of youth. At the very least, they want to know which brands aren’t contributing to the problem.

In this blog post, I’ll identify some tips for which brands to use, how to identify your skin type and the best way to keep your skin looking young using everyday makeup. Did I miss anything? Leave your questions or suggestions in the comments below.

The Best Age Fighters: Moisture and Sun Protection

The absolute best way to fight wrinkles and other signs of aging is, without a doubt, to moisturize and protect your skin from the sun. Even if you already have oily skin, use an oil-free moisturizer (like Aveeno) to help your skin maintain its elasticity as it ages.

Protecting your skin from the sun is another must-do. Although a tan may look nice when you are in your teens and 20s, it definitely leads to skin damage, wrinkles and other signs of aging later in life. Make sure a sunscreen is part of your daily routine, and make sure you’re using at least SPF 30. Many moisturizers have sunscreen as part of their formula, so choose one with SPF to combine these two critical steps.

Avoid Powder-Based Foundation and Concealer

Avoid using powder-based foundations or concealers, as these types of makeup, when used on dry skin, can actually sink into wrinkles and make them more visible!

Start by remedying your dry skin problem. To do that, first refer to my first tip and moisturize! Second, use liquid or cream-based foundations, eye shadows and other products applied directly to the skin.

Makeup with Additives

Retinol is the newest buzzword in the anti-aging and makeup world. It is often added to a variety of foundations. Although it may increase cell turnover (which helps slow the aging process), it’s not something that has been proven. If you’re already using a retinol foundation, keep it up. If you’re not, don’t bank on it being the end all be all for anti-aging makeup.

The Tint

As women age, they often experience a dullness in their skin tone. Using a foundation and/or moisturizer with bronzer or other tinted, luminescent qualities makes a huge difference. By reflecting light, the makeup gives the illusion of a more evenly tinted, vibrant skin tone. Although this won’t actually change your skin, it will improve its appearance.

Don’t Spend a Fortune!

While there are lots of brands out there, most of them offer a similar product. According to Good Housekeeping, the following products scored highest among women for their anti-aging qualities:

• Concealer – Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Eraser Dark Circles Treatment Concealer
• Foundation – Chanel Lift Lumière Firming and Smoothing Fluid Makeup SPF 15
• A note from Dr. Patel: Although SPF 15 is better than none, I recommend using at least SPF 30 on a daily basis.
• Primer – Korres Quercetin & Oak Anti-Aging Age Reversing Face Primer
• Lipstick – Dior Rouge Serum SPF 20
• Eye Shadow – MAC Paint Pot
• Mascara – MAC False Lashes

For more information on the magazine’s findings, click here.  

The Beauty of Botox

Photo by Charles Williams

Last year, 5.6 million people received Botox injections. If you don’t know a Botox user personally, odds are you have heard of a few – Simon Cowell, Jenny McCarthy, David Hasselhoff and Vanessa Williams have all had Botox treatments for a variety of reasons.

But what is Botox? Although it’s often the butt of bad jokes in movies, Botox is pretty revolutionary, and it might even work for you. Let’s start by addressing a few common questions, misconceptions and recommendations. 

If you have any questions not included here, leave them in the comments, and I’ll answer them there.

Where did it come from?

Botox is derived from Botulinum toxin. The word may sound familiar if you’ve heard of botulism, a type of food poisoning. Although it can be toxic in very high doses, 10 years ago, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration approved the patented small dose, now known as Botox, to treat a variety of cosmetic issues.

If you’re wondering how the idea to use the product to treat wrinkles came about, it was totally by accident! In the late 1980s, it was being used as a treatment for facial muscle spasms, and patients began commenting on the benefits to wrinkles and other cosmetic issues. That led to more research and, eventually, FDA approval in 2002.

What does it do?

Botox can be used to treat a variety of minor cosmetic issues. These include:

• Filling in wrinkles, like crow’s feet, to make them less visible
• Injections under the arms can help control heavy sweating.
• Erasing frown lines around the mouth or wrinkles on the forehead
• Correct crossed eyes

The effects of Botox typically last up to four months. Regular injections are safe, and the effect is the same with each injection. There is no “wear” or “getting used to” the effects of Botox.

Allergan, Inc., the manufacturer of Botox, recently received FDA approval to use Botox to treat incontinence and chronic migraines. They are exploring its use for other conditions, as well.

How does it work?

Quite simply, Botox blocks signals from the nerves to the muscles, essentially “deadening” them and keeping the muscles from contracting. This causes the muscles to relax and soften, lessening or even eliminating visible signs of wrinkles.

Is it safe?

Yes! Although technically derived from a neurotoxin, Botox is 100 percent safe. In small doses, the injections are very well-received and highly effective for cosmetic issues. There are no known long-term safety risks associated with Botox injections.

Although the injection itself is safe, it is possible to experience a bad outcome. Be very selective when choosing the physician who will administer your shots. Always choose a licensed dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Risks associated with poorly performed Botox injections are primarily cosmetic, and include shiny skin, visible ripples or the “frozen” look often portrayed in movies.

Should I get Botox?

It’s important to note that Botox is a brand name. There are now two competing products on the market, as well – Dysport and Xeomin. At Advanced Dermatology & Skin Cancer Associates, we recommend a certain brand to patients based on a few factors: how often the patient plans to get injections, the specific area to be treated and the patient’s medical history or concerns.

Oftentimes, Botox is used as an alternative to more invasive or expensive procedures.

If you have a question about pursuing a Botox procedure, call us at 901-759-2322.